Writing about Essaouira

Essaouira

To speak of Essaouira city the city where I live and work is to speak of diversity, wealth and community. A diversity of cultures and knowledge, translated by the number of native Essaouiri artists: Of painters, poets, sculptors and craftsmen, who have been life-time and world-wide ambassadors of Essaouiri art. A diversity of music and song, celebrated every year by festivals that allowed the pearl of the Atlantic to welcome on its stage the best singers and musicians of the world.

An artistic and cultural wealth that has stemmed from the heart of Africa to bloom in the west. A wealth that has been transmitted from hand to hand as a sign of tolerance and community to create this so much sought-for sweetness and tranquility, which can be found nowhere but between the battlements of a city named Essaouira.

  The History of Essaouira

The history of Essaouira city is bound to trade, an activity that the city has practised for more than two centuries. In the middle age, The Islands of Mogador were known by the Carthaginians and the Phoenicians, the archaeological excavations done on these islands attest this presence and consider it an important event in the history of the city. The king of Mauritania Juba II fitted these islands with a workshop for the extraction of purple that was much sought for by the Romans. Thus commercial transits between Mogador and Europe were permanent for many years.

Since the 11th century the harbor of Essaouira had become the most important harbour in the south of Morocco, it assured the transportation of merchandise to other inshore Moroccan cities or towards Europe. This activity remained limited in scope until the 16th century, with the arrival of Portuguese who were attracted by the abundant production of sugar in Morocco. They transported this substance in large quantities towards different European countries, which had a positive impact on the economy of the city and contributed to the development of the naval trade in the harbour of Mogador.

The Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdullah chose to build the city of Essaouira according to a European architecture and to expand the harbour, with a view to valorize the economy of the region and to make of Essaouira city a crossroads of international economy. He also called on the Jewish bourgeois families to get settled in the city and participate in its economic development. Besides, Consulates were constructed in the city to ensure good diplomatic relations and to encourage fair commercial exchanges with the rest of the world.

The "Attarine" district was the centre of trade, its name in Arabic means "sellers of spice". caravans coming from sub – Saharan countries, stopped at Bab Sbaa, to unload their merchandise which carriers took towards the center of the city, especially to the Attarine street. Essaouira was known for the trade of tea, its name is up to now marked on packets of the finest tea in the country.

The Mellah district, after its construction by the sultan Moulay Abderrahman to alleviate the Kasbah from thousands of Jewish settlers, mainly tradesmen, woodworkers, dressmakers and craftsmen , became the most populated and dynamic district of the city. By the way, the Jewish population there and then counted more than 15000 people. Although the Jewish trade was concentrated in the Mellah district, a lot of Moslems bought their jewelry there owing to the artistic style and remarkable work of the Jewish goldsmiths.

In the eighties of the last century, fishing represented the main source of income, as the port remained in activity all year long; it was ranked among the most prestigious sardine ports in the world. Fresh fish is still available there or in the fish market situated in the city center. The industrial district used to group about ten sardine canneries, and canned fish was exported mainly to Europe. At present, some of these factories have closed down, others have moved towards other Moroccan cities, and out of ten, only two are left.

Today and with the objective to make Essaouira city a world tourist site, the number of hotels is in regular growth, the city shelters hotels of high range -which was not the case before - houses of hosts are distributed in all alleys of the city, riads and residences are also in remarkable growth, and it is thanks to this futuristic strategy that tends to turn the city into a place of appointment for every peace and joy seeker.

Handicraft is the dominant activity in the economy of Essaouira city. The craft of sculpture on the thuya wood is nowhere else to be found, it is appreciated by the national and international tourists. The score of boutiques and galleries exhibit objects of multiple uses, sculptures, pieces of furniture and even small objects such as earrings and key rings, a mass of wide choice, which reflects the important role of the handicraft in the local economy. It is a domain enriched by the large number of tourists that is prone to increase in the years to come.

         Living in Essaouira

Essaouira has become a world tourism destination. Many a tourist prefers to spend his holidays here due to its tranquillity, historical and cultural wealth. Some have even decided to remain here, and launch new business enterprises, especially in the tourist domain. The increasing number of host houses, restaurants and bazaars testifies clearly to this enterprise culture in this small inshore city of the Atlantic. A city that offers all the required assets for an economic conquest.

International media have played an important part in marketing this image of Essaouira city through the whole world. Different international TV and radio channels broadcast different programs telling the history of the city, and describing with ease the local events and festivities. Thus, a tourist revolution has seen the day. The number of visitors is in constant growth, and has often reached unprecedented percentages according to seasons.

Well-known film-makers have chosen the city of Essaouira for shooting their films. Chief among these movies are: "the Kingdom of Heaven" of Ridley Scott, "Alexander, The Great" of Oliver Stone. Last but not least, "Othello" of Orson Welles, who used Skala battlements as the main filming set in 1952. This movie will remain for ever engraved on the tourist memory of the city. It goes without saying that a variety of national movies and serials has soon followed.

A diversity of festivals and other cultural events are organized all the year long. The Alizés in April, Gnaoua and World Music in June, The Young Gnaoua Talents in August and Andalusian Music in October. These events are attended by a large audience that makes the trip from Morocco and abroad. In parallel, symposia, round tables and exhibitions are organized to decipher the cultural and artistic wealth that is deeply-rooted in the wind city. More, the city hosts several "Moussems". The most prominent ones are: "Regraga" in spring, Ganoua and Hamadcha in summer, the feast of Achoura (The tenth day of the first month after the Hegira), the ceremony of " Chrib Atay ", a historic heritage that describes, in music, this perpetual long-standing challenge between Chbanate and Beni Antar, the two Moslem communities that lived in the city then.

The bay of Essaouira lends itself to the practice of aquatic sports like surfing, Kit – Surfing, sailboard…etc. At the outskirts of the city, the beaches of Cap Sim, Sidi Kaouki, Tafedna to the south; Bhibah and Moulay Bouzerktoune to the north constitute a succession of coastal attractions, an extension of sea and sand. Such beautiful scenery gives the beach attendants plenty of sport and trekking choices. At sunset, when the sun merges with the ocean in the faraway horizon, the corner offers a multitude of red colour paintings that dissolve gradually and quietly in the dark.

Situated just few kilometers away from the old town, Diabat, once a Hippy shelter and a hermitage for the legendary figure of Rock music Jimmy Hendrix , is now a construction site for the biggest tourist project ever, a sea resort of high range, including hotels, villas and residences. This project will be endowed with accompaniment facilities such as golf, shopping and nautical centers and similar other things. Nearby, there is the ruin of Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdullah palace. A palace the Sultan had used for rest and relaxation.

Essaouira is a city full of surprises. Its visitors are amazed by a wide and varied choice of places and events, and held captive by its magic charm. Artists in general and writers, poets and painters in particular are spell-bound by the ocher battlements of a city named Essaouira.